Quebec Adventure Knitting

by Judy Fawcett

September 11 to 20, 2013

Every two years knitter/designer/teacher extraordinaire Lucy Neatby and I join forces for a one of a kind knitting adventure.  Lucy plans the knitting program and I plan the non-knitting program.  Our adventures have taken us across Canada from east to west as well as north to the Yukon Territory and once to The Galapagos Islands. In 2013 our destination was the Magdalen Islands or Îles de la Madeleine, in the Gulf of St. Lawrence.  The islands are part of the Province of Quebec and except for one tiny English settlement the islanders’, known as Madelinots, the first language is French.

To reach the islands we traveled by ship along the St Lawrence River. Since the ship departs from Montreal the plans included spending some time there before leaving on the cruise.

Most of us arrived at The Fairmont Queen Elizabeth Hotel, (our Montreal home for 2 nights) by 747—not the jumbo jet, but the shuttle bus that picks you up at the airport and drops you off on the corner across the street from the hotel.  At the hotel we enjoy a drink and refreshments with old and new friends before setting off for the Botanical Gardens. We pause briefly at our metro stop, the Olympic Stadium, where Nadia Comaneci became the first gymnast to score a perfect 10 in the 1976 Olympics, and which after decades of controversy is now domed and paid for.  

Photo by John Stelling

We reach the Botanical Gardens in fading light but with time to see some of the giant horticulture sculptures. As darkness sets in, the Chinese Garden comes alive with a coloured lantern display. We take it as good omen for our adventure when the rain holds off until we are back at the hotel.

Photo by John Stelling

Photo by Judy Fawcett

The next morning we meet our local Montreal tour guide, Ismaël, who takes us on a walking tour, filling us in on some lesser known facts about the colourful history of Old Montreal. 

After the tour it is time to leave our non-knitting companions (NKCs) on their own as the yarn stores are calling us.  This first stop is Rix Rax, where manger Juliette Trolio has spent more than 20 years collecting notions and buttons. 

Just a few doors down the street waiting for us is Céline Barbeau in her brand new yarn shop La Maison Tricotée. The shop doesn’t officially open for another 2 days, but when I told Celine that we would already have started our cruise she said “come anyway and be my first customers.” Céline pulled out all the stops to prepare for our visit; her staff worked extra hours to set up the yarn displays and still greets us with warm smiles. As if that isn’t enough, Céline’s mother and step-father fresh off the plane from Paris were pressed into service to bake goodies and serve us tea. We snap up the yarn and devour the goodies.

With our yarn and hunger cravings momentarily sated, we travel to our next yarn store located in the Notre Dame de Grace District. Espace Tricot owned by Melissa Clulow and Lisa Di Fruscia is filled with luscious yarns and staffed by knowledgeable, helpful knitters. Our visit coincides with the shop’s regular Thursday Night Knitting group. I recognize some of the knitters from my visit last year and show pictures of the finished dress I was knitting, or more truthfully ripping out, at that time. Our stop at Espace Tricot could be summed up as we came … we saw … we bought … and loved every minute. 

Photos by Judy Fawcett

After all the shopping, we need to replenish our energy.  La Gryphon d’Or is a tiny café next door to Espace Tricot that I had tried previously. Chef and owner Donna Malin specializes in lunches and afternoon teas but she serves us pot pies and other comfort food along with scones and desserts.  

Photo by John Stelling

Excitement is high and we are all up early the following morning, some using the time before we board the ship to visit the Chihuly Glass Exhibit at the Museum of Fine Arts. The dock is only minutes away by coach, but access is complicated.  Once inside the secured area we are thrilled and relieved to catch sight of a head of multi-coloured hair firmly attached to our knitting guru Lucy Neatby. For a moment we think we are seeing double, but then realize we are about to meet Lucy’s sister who has come from England to join us on this trip.

Photo by John Stelling

With the check-in formalities over, we check-out our cabins aboard the CTMA Vacancier before starting serious shipboard knitting and causing serious consternation among the other passengers when they see a roomful of people madly winding yarn. 

On this trip Lucy is giving double knitting workshops and the project is a choice of a cowl or a hat. Our first evening knitting is interrupted only by dinner and the approach of the power boat carrying the pilot for the next stretch of river. The boat pulls up alongside the Vacancier, one pilot disembarks and the other boards while both boats keep moving. 

Photos by Judy Fawcett

Our onboard accommodation is cozy, the bunks may be a little short and the showers a little snug, but the food is excellent, the crew is friendly and there is live Acadian music in the evening.

Knitting classes take place in the dining room, in the lounge, on the deck or any corner of the ship where nothing else is happening.  

Photos by Judy Fawcett

The NKCs are no longer Non Knitting Companions, but Novice Knitting Companions.  They have each been given a ball of yarn, a pair of needles and shown knitting basics.  The knitters offer praise and help while the word “tension” takes on a whole new meaning for the NKCs.

Photos by Judy Fawcett

After 2 nights on board the Vacancier we dock at Cap-aux-Meules on Îles de la Madeleine. Our guide, Lucie Longuépée, meets us and shepherds us onto our island transportation, a yellow school bus. We make the 60 minute trip along the thin thread of road that is the only land connection to Grande-Entrée located at the end of the string of islands. We are staying at the Auberge La Salicorne, a former hostel, now owned and operated by the community.  It also houses the Seal Interpretation Centre dedicated to the explanation of the seal hunt. Our workshop room is spacious, and bright, with a view of the sea. When we aren’t in class, our guides, Lucie and Lola, take us to deserted windswept beaches, and while the sands don’t sing for us, the scenery is breathtaking. 

Photos by Judy Fawcett

During our lunch at the Alpha Café, owner Mario Cyr tells us about his adventures as an undersea photographer and close encounters of the polar bear kind. At dinner our knitting guru Lucy confirms she isn’t just another pretty knitter by demonstrating the art of extracting the meat from the lobster shell.  

Photos by Judy Fawcett

Our two days on the islands seem over before they started, but before we join the Vacancier for the return trip we take time to sample the local micro brewery products and have dinner at Domaine du Vieux Couvent, a former convent now a B&B and restaurant.   

Photo by Judy Fawcett

On our return voyage we visit the ship’s bridge and learn what and who keeps us on course. We stop at the village of Chandler. While Liz and I board another school bus to visit the village of Percé and get a closer look at Percé Rock, the rest of the group strolls the streets of Chandler. We all are awestruck by the sight of gannets nose-diving into the water, hoping to catch their next meal.

Photo by Judy Fawcett 

Photo by John Stelling

Once back on the boat, we take our knitting out on the deck to sit in the warm sunshine and are treated to an impromptu music performance, while our genial and obliging captain puts in a few stitches.

Photo by Judy Fawcett

The next day we stop at Quebec City. We take the funicular to the top avoiding the steep climb from the dock.  After discovering that many of the knitters are also fans of a Quebec author and her fictional hero, Chief Inspector Gamache, I booked a tour that includes many of the places Gamache frequents.  With our guides Marie and Marie we visit the Quebec Literary & Historical Society, St Andrews Presbyterian Church and stop for tea and maple sugar pie at Le Petit Coin Latin. To find out “who dun it” read Bury Your Bones by Louise Penny.

Photos by Judy Fawcett

That evening, we watch the sun set and Chateau Frontenac slip into the distance while enjoying our wrap-up dinner in the ship’s restaurant.  

Photo by Judy Fawcett

Next morning, when Susan arrives for breakfast the crew and other passengers exchange bemused looks, while we congratulate her as she is wearing her newly completed double knitting hat.  

Photo by Judy Fawcett

After breakfast it’s time to go and start thinking about our adventure to Canada’s north for knitting and beluga whale watching in 2015.

For more information on my tours, visit www.lloydstravel.com/knitting.